Joan's Fulbright

This Blog is set up to stay in touch with family and friends during my year in Slovakia. I will write regularly and hope you will too.

Friday, May 25, 2007

Queen Bee buzzes in!

It's true! Queen Beatrice of the Netherlands was in BA this week. I know so because last Monday there was a 20 foot high obelisk made out of orange and white tulips placed on my square in her honor. Her majesty had given Bratislava 10,000 tulip bulbs and the tulip tower remained there for the duration of her visit. While walking through the square last Tuesday evening, I noticed that we had literally rolled out the red carpet for her at the National Theater. There were six flags of the Netherlands flying outside of the building, and I imagine she was going to attend an opera or ballet, seated in the special box reserved for dignitaries.

I had been on my way to Larry Silverman's place to attend an American Embassy sponsored BBQ honoring outgoing and incoming Fulbrighters, American and Slovak. Janeil and Jon B. have already left the country. Jennifer, Andy and Chuck were all traveling, Julie is out of town with the Roma and Josh is too far away to attend a week night affair. Mark and Betsy came in from Nitra with daughter Zofia, who, at 5 months, has more hair than I! Mike, Kathy, Jon C., Nicole and I completed the American Fulbright group. We had a chance to talk to the Slovak Fulbrighters, including the two exchange teachers for next year. I was especially interested in meeting Barbora, the art teacher who would go to New Jersey. Her American partner, Jessica, had located me through my blog, and been corresponding with me to learn more about BA. It was so interesting to be talking to people with their entire exchange ahead of them, with all of the excitement and unknowns yet to unfurl. And our group, on the other hand, is wrapping up the experience. Our mode right now is a frantic countdown: we're trying to get everything finished on that "to-do" list, both at school and away. Meanwhile Jon, Nicole and I have five more weeks of class so there is limited time and lots of to-do's.

On my list were school visits. I will head to Matky Alexie next week, a Catholic 8-year gymnazium in my neighborhood. I set this observation up in person (not the best way) when I noticed the school as I was just beginning a run. I didn't look TOO grubby, so I went in and with the help of a senior arranged a date. Yes, you can come to observe, said the administrator, but no, there are no positions available. Fine, I assured her I was not Slovak job hunting and just wanted a look-see.

A far better way to arrange such observations is to have your director contact the school and this is what we did when I visited the Sportove Gymnazium last week. When I learned that there are Sports Schools in Slovakia, I thought it would be interesting to do an observation at one of them. I mentioned this to Hanka, and she said there was one in BA right in our neighborhood and director Myka would arrange it.

Hanka printed out directions; it seemed easy to find as it was just 4 tram stops down and a short walk. "Look for the playing fields" she said, and so I did. The fields were behind the school but the first thing I saw as I made my way from the tram stop. And the fields were full of students of all ages: it looked like the entire school was at recess. I found an entrance and the guard found me. No one spoke english and I was escorted to the office where I was curtly asked, "What do you want here?" I explained about the observation; she said there was no such thing. We tried again and soon discovered I was at the wrong school! The Sports School was next door, and as they both looked alike with no names posted, it was impossible to tell which was which. After giving me directions, the adminsistrator asked ME to come observe THERE at the public school and maybe even teach "but there is no money". She took my name and e-mail but I haven't heard; maybe she just did it to save face after nearly kicking me out of her school.

Always good to be early, because after that episode I was now just on time! I got buzzed into the correct school and looked over all hype in the corridor while waiting for Vladimir Miller (!), the Head Master. Vladimir shook my hand, and shook and shook, until we were holding hands walking down the corridor. He is a very warm person, obviously accustomed to the p.r. part of his job, and was a terrific interview. We began by looking at the photos of the 10 most outstanding seniors and all the print displays. I saw athletes who were kayakers, skiers, and soccer players. Other sports represented were cycling, volleyball, tennis, judo, track & field and gymnastics. Valdimir was obviously very proud that in the 14 short years that Slovakia has been a country, 18 of their Olympic medals have been connected with this particular school, one of eight in the country. While this display was informative, what I didn't see were the students.

We went to Vladimir's huge office which held two immense conference tables, each completely covered will multiple stacks of papers. Sitting on couches set to the side, we had coffee and he explained the schedule. Students train twice a day, mornings from 8-9:30, then attend classes from 10:30-4:30, followed by a second training session. Most training occurs off-campus and in fact the school has only one gym which I never did see. He employs 23 coaches who are not teachers, to work with his students. Many students typically miss blocks of time for training and/or competition. An extreme example was one of their elite level tennis players who was out of the country 10 months last year. As my "observation" was mid-day, I basically got to to see the inside of Vladimir's office.

Soon Ludmilla joined us and helped with translating. Although Vladimir's english was quite good, it was really a bonus to have her with us. She had been a former student of Vladimir's, had taught physical education, but now only taught english at the Sports School. She explained that sometimes she has only 2-3 sudents in the classroom, but is still reponsible for coordinating the lessons of all her students. Slovaks call this consultation; it sounds very much like internet classes.

Prospective students sit for academic entrance exams, have a psychological test, skills and fitness evaluations and a medical examination. (Students must have absolutely no physical problems.) Although this is a state school, parents do pay some nominal fees but nothing close to private school tuition. "Does everyone who attends your school have ambitions of being a world class athlete?" I asked. Vladimir shook his head and replied ruefully, "No, but their parents do." This is an 8-year school, grades 5-12; not so easy to commit to the white water, for example, when you're only 10. It would be interesting to read statistics about longevity at such schools, but we didn't get that in depth.

Vladimir himself teaches a course about sport training. When gymnazium students are seniors and sit for exams they can take a Level III test in physical education. This compentency allows them to receive certification to coach young children, but it is limited and not as involved as the Level I certification available with a University diploma.

So not only was there no physical education to observe, there was no physical education, period. We talked a bit about the status of p.e. in the country; both verified my conclusions that it remains a second-tier discipline, as they say over here. Ludmilla said she was "out to change the world" when she first began to teach, but soon became too frustrated with the circumstances to continue. They both spoke about Slovakia's increasing obesity (People say, "getting like Americans"; now isn't that a sad commentary?) Slovaks have more sedentary lifestyles now, and there is a MacDonald's right next to the 200 year old Slovak Pub. Additionally, health care can't keep up and health education is woefully lacking. It's not surprising, then, that physical education is never graded, most view it as optional, and is the first program to be cut when funds are restricted. But physical education remains a skill-based subject, lacking the same emphasis as our attempt in the states to promote lifetime fitness. I just learned that skill tests are given in four different sports in order to gain entrance to University here; I'd probably have been a wash-out.

Vladimir holds the position of VP of the Slovak Olympic Committee, and had been involved with coaching Olympic Pentathlon. We exchanged some Olympic stories and he talked about his first opportunity to be trading pins in the Montreal 1976 Olympics. He told of the time a black athlete approached him to offer a trade, but the pin was not an Olympic one. He said he was only interested in trading Olympic pins, to which she shouted, "What do mean you don't want my pin? Don't you know me, I'm Venus Willams?!" Cameras flashed (pre-digital, imagine that), crowds formed, and yes, he traded pins.

So Vladimir sent me on my way with swag: a small, fringed, satin Slovak Olympic banner and an assortment of Olympic stickers which I've given to the teachers at school. He was so accomodating and had just offered to drive me back to school, when Slovak Radio called wanting a piece of his time. I easily returned on my own, passing the adjacent "wrong school" on my way out. This time the fields were empty save for a p.e. class way off on the other side. I conducted a distance surveilance of a class I would guess to be about 10-11 year olds. They appeared to do a version of Sophie's infamous Sokol: head circles, arm circles, knee lifts, on and on it seemed to go. Finally, they were allowed to run around the area clockwise, the wrong direction in my American mind. Always front and center was one girl - isn't there always one? - in a red sweat shirt. Then the students (guess who was first) lined up behind the teacher who did a right face, walked 4 or 5 paces and stopped her army. At this point I could suddenly pick out the boys because they were doing everything BUT marching to her Slovak beat, falling all over and generally messing around. She threw a small rubber ball to each kid, red sweat shirt getting the first one. Maybe the fun was about to begin but as I could stay no longer, I ended my stalking and caught the next tram.

Back at school, many were interested in hearing about my visit. Although Sport Schools are widely known, no one seemed to be informed about how they operate, so for once I had some Slovak information to share. I told Hanka about going to the wrong school and that I had observed what seemed to be the entire student body at recess. She said that was probably right; that's the way it is usually done in all public schools, uniformly on the same schedule, same texts, same curriculum, etc. Everyone has a short, late morning break and then dismissal at 1:30!

Sports Schools have been around for awhile, beginning from when Czechoslovakia was a country. Now Czech Republic retains theirs in the same way Slovakia does. I don't agree with this philosophy, but as I've said their physical education greatly differs from ours. (This from someone who taught Capture the Flag last week; a big hit!) Additionally, schools are not filled with clubs, teams and marching bands, etc. so recruitment is different. The pathway to the elite level in a small country like Slovakia, therefore, is often through one of its Sports Schools. When I told Jozko about Vladimir Miller, he was already well-informed about him. It seems that Vladimir is also the step-son of the President of the Czech Republic. No wonder he's such a capable diplomat!

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