Joan's Fulbright

This Blog is set up to stay in touch with family and friends during my year in Slovakia. I will write regularly and hope you will too.

Saturday, March 24, 2007

February...March?!

Now I read it! There is a weekly newspaper published here caIled the Spectator that gives us english-speakers local news, albeit most of it a week late. I also have a few editions of the slick Spectacular, its annual travel guide companion magazine with lots of good information about Slovakia. While flipping through an old Spectacular, I recently I came across a sidebar article about "How to Read Slovak Trail Marks", and had another a-hah moment. I now know I can secure trail guides in bookstores and at our local information center. The guides are in Slovak but the trails are color-coded in a way that makes perfect sense.

Trails are always marked in four colors: red, blue, yellow and green. These marks are almost always painted on trees; if it's a red trail, for example, there will be a horizontal stripe painted between two white ones, just as the markings I'd seen last Sunday. In fact, I had seen no red trails that day, as they denote the most challenging trails, ones that move steeply up and down hills. All other colors require less exertion and mean various things. The yellow trail I'd started with was a short connecting trail meant to be a path between two larger trails, and not point to tourist destinations like the castle. Green trails connect to other, larger trails and usually move hikers between tourist attractions. And the blue trail that lead me into the castle was a long, not-too-challenging trail that connects two major tourist attractions, in my case the river/bike path area and the castle.

I also noticed painted white squares with colored diagonals (not horizontals) passing through them. While it reminded me of a one-way, do not enter sign, I figured that was silly but could never see any logic to it. I now know it simply means that there is a sign containing information about the area's local wildlife up ahead, all in Slovak but at least with pictures. Finally, when you see a painted square with its top-right quarter missing (I didn't but I may have just not noticed.) it will be where the trail splits. The standard horizontal mark leads you on the regular path, with the 3/4 version leads to a tourist attraction. Most markings are 300 meters apart, so if you haven't seen something in that approximate distance you can retrace your steps to make sure you are going in the proper direction. So, I had done alright, but knowledge is power and I will do better in the future.

Well, I don't know how it happened but February is gone and good riddance! It's never been my favorite month and there's a reason it has only 28 days. But this brings on March which makes me realize I still need to chat a bit about the past month, so here goes. A while back I had mentioned that in early February we had some release time from school in order to convene for our Fulbight Mid-Winter Conference. We cooperated with Czech Republic making a group of about 30 meeting at the spa town of Trencianske Teplica in Slovakia. We were all expected to give 15 minute presentations explaining what we were doing, and if time allowed, answer questions. This took most of the three days, with some down time to tour the local castle and take advantage of the spa services.

Yes, we were at a spa, but ahem, a SLOVAK SPA, established at one of Slovakia's numerous natural springs. Scratch that: we were at the Flora Hotel, a facility with spa services available IF they could arrange the necessary out-of-house providers. That Sunday afternoon, we Slovak Fulbrighters bounded off our bus, checked in and immediately tried to sign up for massages. The reception desk said of course, but would first have to call the personnel. Ohhhh, OK, and when might we find out? Come back in an hour (or ten minutes, or after dinner, during your conference, in the middle of the night)...just come back. They seemed totally surprised and unprepared that they had a group of people clamoring to schedule massages. (me being one of the predominant clamorers) Their list of spa options looked inviting, but just try to get in to see "The Wizard of Oz". It seemed impossible.

We opted for the "healing waters" of their pool instead, fitted out with powerful jets. Being careful not to flash anyone in the public area of the changing room, I got into my suit. Slovak rooms are uni-sex, but have private changing rooms: just don't mix up the two! Chuck, our resident spa guru was the only one of us who used the sauna, mainly because he was the only one who figured out the procedure. (We couldn't even figure out how to get into the pool. We could see it through the window, but it took a Fulbright Committee of us to actually find the entrance.)

Meanwhile, with persistent "checking back later" I scheduled a massage. Reading the options I saw that I could get a foot reflex massage, shiatsu, under water massage, bubble bath with supplement of herbs and salts or finnish sauna. The list also included some ominous selections like vacuum massage, manual or mechanical lymphatic massage, turf pack and kinetic therapy-curative gymnastics. Overwhelmed by the offerings and figuring I'd best steer clear of turf pack, I went with a classical massage. I also steered clear of the ELECTROTHERAPY ROOM which was right next to my massage room. (Why did I keep thinking of "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest"?)

Slovaks take great pride in the curative powers of their spas. Specific spa towns list diseases they claim to treat as well as methods of treatment. Trencianske Teplice specializes in treating the following conditions: rheumatic degenerative and inflammatory diseases, arthritis, ancylosing spondylitis, rheumatism of muscles, diseases of the spine, neurologies, conditions after operations and accidents of the motor apparatus, and sclerosis multiplex, which I'm pretty sure is NOT a movie theater.

Treatments include balneotherapy, specialized medical care, baths in thermal pools, mud compressions, limoplast/combination of mud and parrafin, physio therapy/hydro-electro-heat therapy, gas injections (!), rehabilitation, acupuncture, medical therapy, turf compressions, kneipis therapy and diet food. Our hotel could arrange access to the thermal pools, but as they were located elsewhere it was inconvenient. I would like to visit one, though, because that whole centuries-old experience is the basis for the contemporary treatments offered at spa towns.

My first massage was 20 minutes and all business. Remember this was all about healing, not some glitzy spa getaway on a remote island. We all compared notes afterward and I decided I would be more daring with future choices, regretting having chosen such a mundane massage for my first round. Meanwhile the Bears lost (remember?). I watched just a little, but the "young uns" saw the entire game which didn't start until midnight. I believe it involved significant amounts of pivo (beer) and cheering; the elders in neighboring rooms not being pleased.

Speaking of young uns, there was a decidedly split representation in just who was interested in massage. As pivo-drinking Jason (age 22) put it, "IT"S A DUDE!" No masseur for him; he'd check out the weight room, thank you. The women of all ages seemed to be more inclined to sign up, but some didn't have the time nor interest to keep "coming back later" so just quit trying.

Not me! I next went in for the massage with lava stones, a full 60 minutes this time. I had smooth, heated stones under my head, between my toes, in my palms and even on my belly. At half-time, you slowly sit up and join your masseur in a cup of peppermint tea, before flipping over to the other side. "And what are you wearing at this point?" asks a modest-aware Susan. "Well, my undies." I reply, only thinking about it for the first time. When you're getting worked on, you feel like a carcass and modesty doesn't even occur to you.

The last massage was the best, the honey detoxification regime. While only 20 minutes it seemed to be the most physical by far of the three massages I'd had. At the end of my treatment he sent me on my way, instructing me to drink five liters of baby water (what they call distilled nursery water). Out the next day for a walk I came upon a fountain which I could smell before I saw. It was bubbling over with sulphur waters and had a courtesy cup for anyone wishing to drink. Eeeew! Having bought my baby water at the potraviny, I took a pass on the public stinky waters of the fountain.

Next door to the grocery was the bakery dedicated to the making of oblakti, the communion wafer-like treat made at most spa towns. I brought coconut, vanilla, chocolate and hazelnut versions back to school and I think it was gone before anyone even took a coffee break.

In between massages we convened for our presentations, all different and all interesting. Kicking off the program were current scholars, Fulbrighters with the highest status (and largest stipends), including friends Chuck and Janeil. Breaks and lunches were built into the program so lots of chance to network or just be a Monday morning quarterback. Whatever. Next came the teaching assistants at universities followed by student projects. This category was amazing and I was so impressed with both the variety and expertise of these graduate students, most of whom were not far away from their undergraduate years.

Juliana was making a documentary entitled "Czechploration: Implications of Czech New Wave Images". Involved in public health was Kat, working in drug abuse prevention. An ultra-marathoner herself, she is organizing a fitness-based intervention and will hold a 5K/10K this spring. Ben attempted to explain his "Novel Retrovirus Assembly Research", and actually did a good job of presenting to non-scientists, although don't ask me to re-explain. These were just a few of some stellar power point presentations by an impressive group of young researchers.

This left three more groups yet to pesent. My group of five exchange teachers went next, with the highlight being Jon's math games and songs he composes to help his students remember their math facts. Accompanying himself on guitar, he shared "All Along the Desktops" sung to a Dave Matthews melody. Here's his final verse:

All along the desktops, books turn page by page.
Students are enlightened with pencils sharp and open brains.
Outside of the math classroom, where wild rectangles prowl
Two circles were approaching, 360 degrees around.

I guess that dies on the page but it was hysterical live, and I hate math! No one will ever forget Jon! As for me, my presentation went well. I talked about the low status of Physical Education in Slovakia and how I am handling the situation. Afterward I talked with Betsy, one of the scholars based in Brno with her family, including 8-year-old daughter, Sophie. She said it sounded exactly like Sophie's Czech gymnazium where she is usually the only girl to participate, especially in swimming and ice skating.

That left our teaching assistants to present, but sharing their experience at the high school level this time. Finally we heard from our newly arrived scholars, including Andy who we had just met on the bus coming to TT. Andy just stepped down from the department chair position at Wheaton College where he works in teacher training in special education. Like with physical education, Slovakia has a different mindset about special education. But unlike PE, there is a positive attitude and openess for change in special education. Andy and wife, Christine, school psychologist are team teaching one of Andy's courses here at the university in BA. They have already visited a number of schools finding segregation the norm, inclusion being a completely new concept.

Last went Kevin who will put his business and academic expertise to use as he teaches Czech NGO's how to build strategic management plans. Aware of his place that morning in our three day long (or three long days) program, Kevin told the story of his college graduation where, due to circumstances, he was the last in a very large class to cross the stage and receive his diploma. Being congratulated by his sainted granny brought smiles to his family as she said, "Why, Kevin, you must have so many friends. Everyone clapped the loudest for you." At the close of Kevin's report, we applauded wildly for our new friend!!!

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