Czech This Out
Well, it was bound to happen I guess, what with the traveling I've been doing the past few months: no room at the inn, or rather no one home at the inn. Arriving in Prague (locals know it as Praha) with arrangements to stay at the Ekumenicka accomodation, I rang the doorbell about 10 PM. And rang. And rang. It was dark and I could see no names, so thinking all the bells belonged to the hostel, I rang them ALL. Finally some man in an undershirt stuck his head out the window. "Prosim?" said he. "Ekumenicka!" pleaded I. Coming away from said window, I figured, ah now here is a hostel (hostile?) resident who will come down and let me in, because Mrs. Jelinkova on night duty apparently won't. After a few more minutes of waiting and insistent doorbell ringing, I realized no one was going to answer the door and I'd better start walking the streets of Bethlehem. Always one to look on the bright side I noted I was NOT pregnant NOR did I have a tired donkey in tow. Things could be worse.
Fortunately, there was a hostel right down the block where, having requested a private bath, I got the equivalent of the presidential suite. So I checked in to the CzechInn (get it?) and I had to laugh as the place was easily four times bigger than my flat, full kitchen with oven, table, chairs, and needless to say the kitchen sink. The CzechInn had an internet cafe and bar with live music that doubled as our breakfast room in the morning. The historic building had been gutted and everything was clean, new and quiet. Erase visions of a grungy youth hostel; it was neither grungy nor filled with young people. Too traumatized to even go enjoy a good, cheap Czech beer, I went to bed.
The next morning after a great breakfast, I hoofed it back to the Ekumenicka. It was then that I realized that only the second bell was the correct one; another Ugly American alive and well in Praha. I returned two more times and no one answered the bell, and not wanting to waste anymore time I got another room at the CzechInn. (I had to downgrade as the honeymoon suite was booked but my new room was fine.)
So finally off to the city center I went, somewhat delayed by this accomodation glitch. I started at the National Museum, located at the top of Wenceslas Square, named after the Good King of Christmas carol fame. Good King W was a much-loved 10th century Duke of Bohemia, credited with bringing Christianity to the country and raising the level of culture of its people. He wisely aligned the Czechs with Saxony rather than Bavaria, giving the Czechs some say-so in regards to the all important Holy Roman Emperor, which you kids already know about from previous blogs. After his assasination in 929, he was memorialized (and later canonized) and has become a symbol of Czech nationalism. He is still thought of as a kind of hero, that in the darkest of times he will come riding down from Blanik Mountain (Are you reading this, Beth Blahnik-Wade?) to save the country. Since this still hasn't happened some pessimists assume that the worst is yet to come!
An aside: Like some others friends, Beth has gotten in touch with me recently. In fact, there have been a number of e-mails as people have just now received my xmas cards! I also enjoy the blog comments but I can't necessarily reach you in order to reply when your address is inaccessible. So, Johnny in ALA, please write! OK, now let's keep walking down the square...
Wenceslas Square is more of a boulevard and for me reflects the feel of the recent history of Czech nationalism. Outside the museum under the cobbles is a memorial to student Jan Palach, who set himself on fire in 1969 in the name of Czech independence from communism. The pillars on the museum itself look like they have a case of chicken pox. This is result of masons repairing Russian bullet holes from the black days of 1968, on purpose mismatching the mortar work in order to preserve the memory of the incident. Further down, opposite the fabulous art nouveau Grand Hotel Evropa, is the balcony where 21 years later, Havel announced that Czechoslovakia freedom was at hand. Try to picture some 300,000 people assembled, jingling keychains and chanting, "It's time to go now." Between crowds, an amazing variety of architecture and history, just standing on the square is overwhelming.
Continuing down the square I hung a left when I saw the signed arrow for the Opera House. I went to the ticket booth and was able to purchase a ticket for Don Pascuale by Donizetti. (Zuzka and I are going to Bergamo, Italy next month, home of Donizetti so it seemed fitting to go see one of his operas.) Returning to the boulevard not too far beyond this, the walk empties into the Old Town Square, a myriad of architechtural styles over the many years building (and re-building) went on here. Prague is the only capital in Central Europe to escape the bombs of last century's wars, so it offers a unique opportunity to see a well-preserved city.
I happened to be inside the information center when the infamous Astronomical Clock struck 1:00. We all rushed out to see the "amazing" show but all I saw was the unamazing end. The show goes like this: One of the four statues next to the clock face represents Death. Death gets the ball rolling by tipping his hourglass, pulling a cord and ringing a bell. This opens the window and brings out the 12 apostles who parade by, a rooster crows and the bell rings. I promised myself to return to catch the whole show, but just as with clocks timing is everything and I never did make it.
The clock is much more complicated than that, keeping several versions of time. You see miniatures being sold all over at souvenir shops as well as t-shirts that say, "Czech me out!" I resisted but did buy a nice signed photo of the Charles Bridge, doing my part to support the Praha economy. I turned onto narrow Karlova, going past Charles University and the Kelmentinum, Prague's huge National and University Library. Charles University was founded over 700 years ago; just imagine THEIR alumni association. We have about six Fulbrighters there in a variety of fields, both teaching and researching.
While the university was once a major European center of learning, it struggles nowadays. Like most universities in Europe, education is free and housing is heavily subsidized. But education is not accessible for many as the state lacks necessary funds. There are many holdover faculty from communist days who value memorization and rote learning, and this teaching style is true of many gymnaziums (high schools) as well. Grades are meaningless; students just need to pass so often do as little as possible. It's no surprise that teachers are poorly paid, even at the university level, and this holds true for Slovakia.
My colleagues here at Comenius University never have their schedules and class rosters until the last minute, and even then things change; my own gymnazium seems much more organized. Last fall at Janeil's graduate level art school, registration was delayed a week because the registrar had some sort of dental work done. Chuck's international business law class designed for discussion, swelled to an enrollment of over 70 and became a lecture course, with even more "distance students" getting the material through Chuck's internet organization. There is much talk of revamping the system and assesssing fees, but it is a political issue and seems to lack the necessary priority. I plan to return to Prague another time and try to hook up with some Fulbrighters and see more of the university.
Meanwhile, continuing the walk brought me to the Charles Bridge, over 500 meters long, spanning the Vltava River and connecting the Old Town with Prague Castle. The bridge is decorated with statues, most blackened due to the pollution, and makes for an entertaining if not commercial stroll. You hear tour guides talk about two of the statues in particular. The first is actually a cross where prisoners would stop to pray as they marched from the castle prison to their execution in the town square. The second is that of St. John Nepomuk, a Czech saint who was the queen's confessor in the 14th century. (Two questions here; who ever heard of this St. John and how many saints ARE there anyway?!) It seems the king was hassling Father John for the details of his queen's sins, but the good priest kept mum. The king had him killed and thrown off the bridge where, as soon as he hit the water, five stars appeared. SO...at the statue there is a plaque with very shiny stars commemorating this. You make a wish and rub a star and be careful because you only get to do this once. Lots of wishing and statue rubbing around here, I'm finding and yes, as I reached the castle grounds I spied the obligatory plague column.
To tour the castle is to really tour a whole complex, including St. Vitus Cathedral where coronations occurred and Good King W is interred. As with any castle it is WAY UP out of harm's (including floods) way. I walked back down, re-crossing the bridge, returning to have some dinner, this time enjoying a Pilsner Urquell, a popular Czech beer often found on tap at pubs. I walked down to the Opera House arriving early and good thing too, as I was at the wrong opera house! (I wanted The Estates Theater, not the State Theater!) I made it in time and was shown to my 2nd balcony box I shared with two other german-speaking women. I enjoyed the performance although it was approximately 110 degrees in our box. During one scene where it looks like the "guy has to give up his one true love" I thought I heard the theme from the Godfather; not the Love Theme, but the solitary trumpet known as the Main Title theme. Excited that The Godfather had used a Donizetti opera motif, I googled it, but all credit seems to go to Nino Rota, a contemporary Italian composer. So much for my sophisticated ear.
The Estates Theater was where Mozart premeired Don Giovanni. There is a bronze statue outside commerating it, but no mention of the fact that it was considered a flop in Prague. Shortly after, Mozart took his show to Vienna where he was embraced. (See, I only know this from having been to Vienna. Different cities, different versions.)
On Sunday I had planned to spend the morning at the Jewish Museum which like the castle is a number of buildings that requires about 3 hours. Instead I walked over much of the same area and also visited the Alfred Mucha (say moo-ka) museum, something I was interested in and also felt I had the time for. Mucha worked at the turn of the last century, and like Klimt in Austria, did extensive work in Art Nouveau. He is best known for his posters, although he designed and painted as well. He also did one stain glass window (a replacement) in St. Vitus Cathedral which I had visited the day before. I bought a birthday present for a certain sister-in- law married to the brother- in- law who is now in possession of the infamous walking stick.
I later heard from the Ekumenicka who said that they realized the door bell didn't work, Mrs. jelinkova was home all week-end, and "hoped I wasn't too inconvenienced". Well, I was but in their defense, their accomodation is generally used for church-related visitors; they are not in the business of hosteling. I have since heard of an accomodation that is reserved for visiting academics right in Old Town. So this is probably where I'll book next time I come to CZECH IT OUT.
Fortunately, there was a hostel right down the block where, having requested a private bath, I got the equivalent of the presidential suite. So I checked in to the CzechInn (get it?) and I had to laugh as the place was easily four times bigger than my flat, full kitchen with oven, table, chairs, and needless to say the kitchen sink. The CzechInn had an internet cafe and bar with live music that doubled as our breakfast room in the morning. The historic building had been gutted and everything was clean, new and quiet. Erase visions of a grungy youth hostel; it was neither grungy nor filled with young people. Too traumatized to even go enjoy a good, cheap Czech beer, I went to bed.
The next morning after a great breakfast, I hoofed it back to the Ekumenicka. It was then that I realized that only the second bell was the correct one; another Ugly American alive and well in Praha. I returned two more times and no one answered the bell, and not wanting to waste anymore time I got another room at the CzechInn. (I had to downgrade as the honeymoon suite was booked but my new room was fine.)
So finally off to the city center I went, somewhat delayed by this accomodation glitch. I started at the National Museum, located at the top of Wenceslas Square, named after the Good King of Christmas carol fame. Good King W was a much-loved 10th century Duke of Bohemia, credited with bringing Christianity to the country and raising the level of culture of its people. He wisely aligned the Czechs with Saxony rather than Bavaria, giving the Czechs some say-so in regards to the all important Holy Roman Emperor, which you kids already know about from previous blogs. After his assasination in 929, he was memorialized (and later canonized) and has become a symbol of Czech nationalism. He is still thought of as a kind of hero, that in the darkest of times he will come riding down from Blanik Mountain (Are you reading this, Beth Blahnik-Wade?) to save the country. Since this still hasn't happened some pessimists assume that the worst is yet to come!
An aside: Like some others friends, Beth has gotten in touch with me recently. In fact, there have been a number of e-mails as people have just now received my xmas cards! I also enjoy the blog comments but I can't necessarily reach you in order to reply when your address is inaccessible. So, Johnny in ALA, please write! OK, now let's keep walking down the square...
Wenceslas Square is more of a boulevard and for me reflects the feel of the recent history of Czech nationalism. Outside the museum under the cobbles is a memorial to student Jan Palach, who set himself on fire in 1969 in the name of Czech independence from communism. The pillars on the museum itself look like they have a case of chicken pox. This is result of masons repairing Russian bullet holes from the black days of 1968, on purpose mismatching the mortar work in order to preserve the memory of the incident. Further down, opposite the fabulous art nouveau Grand Hotel Evropa, is the balcony where 21 years later, Havel announced that Czechoslovakia freedom was at hand. Try to picture some 300,000 people assembled, jingling keychains and chanting, "It's time to go now." Between crowds, an amazing variety of architecture and history, just standing on the square is overwhelming.
Continuing down the square I hung a left when I saw the signed arrow for the Opera House. I went to the ticket booth and was able to purchase a ticket for Don Pascuale by Donizetti. (Zuzka and I are going to Bergamo, Italy next month, home of Donizetti so it seemed fitting to go see one of his operas.) Returning to the boulevard not too far beyond this, the walk empties into the Old Town Square, a myriad of architechtural styles over the many years building (and re-building) went on here. Prague is the only capital in Central Europe to escape the bombs of last century's wars, so it offers a unique opportunity to see a well-preserved city.
I happened to be inside the information center when the infamous Astronomical Clock struck 1:00. We all rushed out to see the "amazing" show but all I saw was the unamazing end. The show goes like this: One of the four statues next to the clock face represents Death. Death gets the ball rolling by tipping his hourglass, pulling a cord and ringing a bell. This opens the window and brings out the 12 apostles who parade by, a rooster crows and the bell rings. I promised myself to return to catch the whole show, but just as with clocks timing is everything and I never did make it.
The clock is much more complicated than that, keeping several versions of time. You see miniatures being sold all over at souvenir shops as well as t-shirts that say, "Czech me out!" I resisted but did buy a nice signed photo of the Charles Bridge, doing my part to support the Praha economy. I turned onto narrow Karlova, going past Charles University and the Kelmentinum, Prague's huge National and University Library. Charles University was founded over 700 years ago; just imagine THEIR alumni association. We have about six Fulbrighters there in a variety of fields, both teaching and researching.
While the university was once a major European center of learning, it struggles nowadays. Like most universities in Europe, education is free and housing is heavily subsidized. But education is not accessible for many as the state lacks necessary funds. There are many holdover faculty from communist days who value memorization and rote learning, and this teaching style is true of many gymnaziums (high schools) as well. Grades are meaningless; students just need to pass so often do as little as possible. It's no surprise that teachers are poorly paid, even at the university level, and this holds true for Slovakia.
My colleagues here at Comenius University never have their schedules and class rosters until the last minute, and even then things change; my own gymnazium seems much more organized. Last fall at Janeil's graduate level art school, registration was delayed a week because the registrar had some sort of dental work done. Chuck's international business law class designed for discussion, swelled to an enrollment of over 70 and became a lecture course, with even more "distance students" getting the material through Chuck's internet organization. There is much talk of revamping the system and assesssing fees, but it is a political issue and seems to lack the necessary priority. I plan to return to Prague another time and try to hook up with some Fulbrighters and see more of the university.
Meanwhile, continuing the walk brought me to the Charles Bridge, over 500 meters long, spanning the Vltava River and connecting the Old Town with Prague Castle. The bridge is decorated with statues, most blackened due to the pollution, and makes for an entertaining if not commercial stroll. You hear tour guides talk about two of the statues in particular. The first is actually a cross where prisoners would stop to pray as they marched from the castle prison to their execution in the town square. The second is that of St. John Nepomuk, a Czech saint who was the queen's confessor in the 14th century. (Two questions here; who ever heard of this St. John and how many saints ARE there anyway?!) It seems the king was hassling Father John for the details of his queen's sins, but the good priest kept mum. The king had him killed and thrown off the bridge where, as soon as he hit the water, five stars appeared. SO...at the statue there is a plaque with very shiny stars commemorating this. You make a wish and rub a star and be careful because you only get to do this once. Lots of wishing and statue rubbing around here, I'm finding and yes, as I reached the castle grounds I spied the obligatory plague column.
To tour the castle is to really tour a whole complex, including St. Vitus Cathedral where coronations occurred and Good King W is interred. As with any castle it is WAY UP out of harm's (including floods) way. I walked back down, re-crossing the bridge, returning to have some dinner, this time enjoying a Pilsner Urquell, a popular Czech beer often found on tap at pubs. I walked down to the Opera House arriving early and good thing too, as I was at the wrong opera house! (I wanted The Estates Theater, not the State Theater!) I made it in time and was shown to my 2nd balcony box I shared with two other german-speaking women. I enjoyed the performance although it was approximately 110 degrees in our box. During one scene where it looks like the "guy has to give up his one true love" I thought I heard the theme from the Godfather; not the Love Theme, but the solitary trumpet known as the Main Title theme. Excited that The Godfather had used a Donizetti opera motif, I googled it, but all credit seems to go to Nino Rota, a contemporary Italian composer. So much for my sophisticated ear.
The Estates Theater was where Mozart premeired Don Giovanni. There is a bronze statue outside commerating it, but no mention of the fact that it was considered a flop in Prague. Shortly after, Mozart took his show to Vienna where he was embraced. (See, I only know this from having been to Vienna. Different cities, different versions.)
On Sunday I had planned to spend the morning at the Jewish Museum which like the castle is a number of buildings that requires about 3 hours. Instead I walked over much of the same area and also visited the Alfred Mucha (say moo-ka) museum, something I was interested in and also felt I had the time for. Mucha worked at the turn of the last century, and like Klimt in Austria, did extensive work in Art Nouveau. He is best known for his posters, although he designed and painted as well. He also did one stain glass window (a replacement) in St. Vitus Cathedral which I had visited the day before. I bought a birthday present for a certain sister-in- law married to the brother- in- law who is now in possession of the infamous walking stick.
I later heard from the Ekumenicka who said that they realized the door bell didn't work, Mrs. jelinkova was home all week-end, and "hoped I wasn't too inconvenienced". Well, I was but in their defense, their accomodation is generally used for church-related visitors; they are not in the business of hosteling. I have since heard of an accomodation that is reserved for visiting academics right in Old Town. So this is probably where I'll book next time I come to CZECH IT OUT.
posted by Joan Vande Velde @ 7:28 AM
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